Guest Rooms

Minimal, Clean and Timeless…

The current trend in room design is just that!

Design demands for today’s hotel need to be durable, maintenance friendly and appealing to all demographics. They need to be trendy and hip enough for a younger crowd, and have a comfortable and cozy appeal for older, more seasoned clientele. Hotel operators and developers require more longevity for their inventory in todays economy than ever before.

Creating a space that is technologically and environmentally savvy is also a key element in design. Today’s travelers with iPads, laptops and smart phones require ease and convenience of connecting and charging.

Finding the design balance between function and aesthetics is the trick. Here we see easy to maintain finishes with neutral to warm color palettes and textural finishes.

Thanks for reading!

Larry

Increased competition, market saturation and rising expectations of visitors mean that hotels must not only widen their choices and raise their standards of service, but also invest in interior design. Currently, guests expect a hotel to not only meet the basic requirements for accommodation, but guarantee comfort, relaxation and a pleasurable stay. Sophisticated, well-equipped bathrooms, tasteful and prestigious decor, and the use of sumptuous materials raise the standards of a facility and provide fond memories of that hotel.

Bathroom areas in hotels are usually small. Accumulated clutter and the “necessaries” in such a space can cause the decorative elements to be lost, overwhelmed, and obscured. Therefore, a minimalist style is ideal for hotel bathrooms – with a strong, clear accent. Small bathrooms prove themselves with friendly materials and larger scales; large mirrors filling an entire wall or placed on two walls, polished and shiny materials, and decorative lighting highlight the nuances of space.

We have all seen the old-dresser-made-to-look-new by re-painting it. But what about some more creative and innovative ways to furnish and decorate your home, while recycling materials that otherwise would end up in a land fill? Some of these pieces can be accomplished by the do-it yourself crowd, and some might need more shop skills that the ordinary person has.

Take a look at some of these pieces:

Here we have a modern chair whose seat and back is made from old CDs (probably might need some shop skills for this one).

Old ball point pens used to create a chandelier.

Old leather belts used to create flooring, but could also be applied to walls.

Wind chime created using glass rings cut from bottles.

Old entertainment center (for the giant TVs no one uses anymore) repurposed into a play kitchen for the kids.

And to reuse the giant TV, turn it into a fish tank.

Here is another chair, but this one is made from plastic water bottles.

Another chair requiring shop skills, but a great reuse for old shopping carts.

A chair made from old hard sided luggage.

 








A tiered movie/TV room made from wooden pallets.

Teacups turned into pendant lights.

As you can see, there are plenty of ideas out there to help you get those creative juices flowing. Have fun creating!

-Carol

Having just completed the previews of the winter 2012 Interior Design and Accessory Market here in Las Vegas, we thought we would share what are the latest and greatest interior design trends coming for this year and next year! As we dust off 2011 and the winter months, here are the newest ideas and trends!

Hope you are inspired!
-Larry

Hello Everyone!

Often when purchasing for a design project we have a tight budget we have to work with. In order to meet those budgets, I will often help the designers find a more affordable version of a product they have picked out. Below you will find some popular items for the home along with a more affordable alternative. You’d be amazed at the savings you will find when you take the time to research. Google Product Search  is one of my favorite methods for price comparisons.

Eileen Gray was a pioneer of the Modern Movement in Architecture. Her Eileen Gray Adjustable Side Table by ClassicCon at Design Within Reach costs $1,150.00

At Lamps Plus you can get a similar version produced by Zuo for only $238.91. A savings of 80%!

The Barcelona Chair by Knoll has been around since 1929 at Design Within Reach it costs $5,063.00.

A more affordable alternative with the same look is the Hercules Chair by Flash Furniture – Bizchair.com $299.00.

If you purchase the alternative you’ll save 95%!

The Tolix H70 Stool has been around since 1950 at Sundance it costs $250.00 ea.

A more affordable version can be found on Overstock! The Tabouret 30” Metal Barstool costs $93.59 for a set of 2!

A Savings of 81%

The Beat Light by Tom Dixon on Lumens.com costs $490.00.

Patriot Lighting produces a similar pendant that’s more affordable at Menards it costs only $29.99!

Wow, that's a savings of 94%!

The Cardiff Tufted Armchair from Pottery Barn costs $799.00.

You can go for this similar alternative available at Overstock – The Tafton Club Chair costs only $376.99

You’ll save 53% if you purchase the alternative instead!

Instead of wood, the Crate & Barrel Spool Accent Table is made from steel and aluminum, it costs $229.00.

The Bailey Accent Table looks very similar, is made of steel and costs only $93.99 at Overstock.com!

Best of all, you’ll save 59% by going with the alternative!

The Eames Lounge Chair & Ottoman by Herman Miller is a classic, it's also very pricey, at Hivemodern.com it costs $4,499.00.

The Hercules Presidio Series Lounge Chair and Ottoman on Amazon is very similiar to the original except for the price! It costs only $699.00!

You’ll save 85% by choosing the alternative version!

Last time Larry talked about paint, but now comes the best part, the painting! It doesn’t have to be hard, and anyone can do it. Here are some of my tips for getting a great paint job – by doing it yourself!

There are plenty of sites that offer how-to’s on painting, but here are some of the basic ideas with my tips that I have used on my many painting projects.

Most of the difficult and tedious part of painting is the prep work, and about 75 percent of your time will be spent doing this.

Patch holes and cracks with a filler product, sand lightly when dry; home centers or paint stores have knowledgeable personnel to guide you to the best products for the job

• I like to use my finger to apply, especially if it is a  small patch – that  way you have very little sanding to do
• I also like the colored fillers that dry white – no more guessing if it is  dry
  

Remove light switch and outlet covers and any hardware or light fixtures that     you can, replace the screws in the outlet if you have a tendency to lose things, then tape over what is left on the wall

• If new switch plates are not in the budget and the existing ones look    sad,they can be painted separately and then re-attached – just don’t    paint them in place or you won’t be able to remove them very easily

If you can’t remove something, cover it with plastic bags or plastic wrap and      tape edges

• Use plastic grocery bags for this (tape a few together if you need a larger size), don’t buy anything special

Sand or clean areas to be painted; any old dirt, grime, flaking paint, dust or  debris left on the wall could cause your new paint to peel

• Use a flat sanding block to make quick work of large areas

Tape all door and window trims and baseboards; this keeps goofs from getting on the trim

• Tedious, I know, but it really should be done

Cover the floor with a plastic or canvas drop cloth

• I like to use cardboard for this (flatten out a box and tape flaps together); it’s easy to move along with you as you paint, and you don’t have to cover the entire room at once – not to mention, the plastic drop cloths stick to your feet!

Paint the wall edges and trim areas first, using a brush

• I like a decent quality angled brush, 2” to 2 ½” wide – I use one with a long handle and one with a short rubber handle, good for tight spaces

Roll paint onto the walls with the correct roller cover; using a long handle extension keeps your ladder usage to a minimum

• I tend to roll slowly to prevent the tiny paint splatters, and you can see how good the coverage is – don’t try to “stretch” the paint too far – make sure an area is completely covered before moving on
• I like to work an area no bigger than 4’ x 4’ at a time, blending into the next area so the edges don’t dry
• If your roller cover is new, use masking tape to help get loose fibers off  before painting

If you need more than one day for your project, cover your paint tray, can, roller, brushes, etc. with plastic, making sure to get as much air out as possible to keep tools from drying out – that way you only have to clean up at the end of the job

• In our dry desert climate, I do this even when taking a break

No matter how careful you are, there will be some goofs; I like to keep a        bucket of water and a cloth rag nearby to clean up anything before it dries

Remove tape from trim and baseboards, don’t let the tape stay on for longer than a day or two

• For a really clean line, cut the dry paint with an Xacto knife along the tape edge, otherwise you may pull your new paint off the wall

Paint the door and window trims and baseboards using a paint brush – never a roller

• Put a strong rubber band across the top of the paint can to use for scraping your brush off; this keeps the can’s lip clean

If you have a fairly steady hand, you can skip some of the taping and paint    your trim freehand or use a painter’s edge – just wipe the edge off each      time you move it to keep from smearing on the newly painted wall

• Remove all jewelry
• Wear old, but comfortable clothes
• Wear slip on shoes
• Protect your hair with a scarf, shower cap, or baseball hat
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from splatters
• Wear gloves to protect your hands and nails – paint is difficult to remove if you are wearing nail polish
• If you can’t wear gloves, try applying hand lotion to keep the paint from sticking to your hands
• If you must have your phone nearby, keep it inside a plastic bag to protect it
• Play some music to get you going
• And don’t be shy about asking your friends to help – some people really do like to paint!

-Carol

Well, hello again everyone!

You know, nothing is as easy to change the look of a space or room than 30 dollars and a free afternoon. Okay and a little skill perhaps.  I have always said simply taking the time to paint a room or accent wall with a fresh coat of paint (in a wonderful color, of course) is the easiest and quickest way to make that change and breathe new life into an interior!

It’s not really that big of a deal and you will be glad you did it. Nothing makes a space feel clean and fresh like a new coat of paint. Okay, so do you struggle with selecting a paint color and type?

Hmmm… What to do… I know!  Try ….whldesign.com!

I hear they have an awesome “virtual designer” site that can take the sting out of these selections.

But here are a couple of tips anyway.

First off, know the surfaces that you are painting and the conditions that they are in and do the necessary preparation work required to receive the paint. If you are not sure, you can use the “Ask the Designer” feature at whldesign.com that is totally free! Never turn down a good free opportunity!

Next, make some paint selections and if the store has small samples, get them! The colors will look SO different in your house based on your lighting type and how much daylight you get.

Everything will look different in the evening too! So paint a small area and look at it for at least 24 hours in the morning, mid-day, and evening - with lights and television on too!

The only time this is not necessary is if you have had warehouse lighting purposely installed in your house. You know, like Lowes?

 If this is the case, forget the paint! You have bigger issues to deal with!  

Some paints require primers or first coats to make sure that the color reads correctly. This is mostly true of deeper saturated colors. It is also true when you are painting a darker wall lighter or a lighter wall darker!

PRIMERS / SEALERS:
These coatings are designed to provide a surface for the finish coats of paint or clear finishes.
Primers seal the surface off and provide a "tooth" for the finish paint; they are used on bare wood and metal, previously painted surfaces that have been repaired or are in poor condition (flaking or peeling), or if the existing surface is to be painted with a new color that is much darker or lighter than the existing color. Primers/Sealers are also used to block out stains like water stains, crayon, smoke, soot, ink, and on woods that will bleed through a paint coating, i.e. cedar or redwood.

Primers/Sealers insure a longer lasting paint finish, as the resins in the finish paints stay on the surface, creating the "wear layer" as they are designed to do. Peeling and premature failure is eliminated and this is by far the most important part in getting a long lasting, durable finish.

FINISH PAINTS:
There are two types of paints used today, latex and alkyd. Alkyd paint is also known as oil-based paint. Latex provides an excellent finish, while being an easier paint to use. Latex paint cleans up with soap and water, dries quickly, has less odor, is non-flammable, easy to touchup, and remains more flexible and allows moisture to evaporate through the film, thus reducing blistering, cracking and peeling.

Inexpensive latex paints use softer vinyl resins (binders) and more water in the formulation, while the more durable of the latex paints use 100% acrylic resins and less water (you only get what you pay for). The term "Enamel" is normally associated with paints that have some gloss to the finish. Enamels are formulated with higher concentrations of resin, as they are intended to be subjected to more wear and tear.

LEVELS OF GLOSS:
The sheen of paint is the amount of light reflected by the surface of the paint finish. There are four basic sheens: flat, satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

Flat Paints:
These paints exhibit non-reflective properties, providing a matte finish. This finish helps hide surface imperfections, and is normally used for ceilings, and walls in areas not subjected to a lot of wear and tear, like dining rooms, living rooms and bedrooms not used by small children.

Satin Paints:
Also know as eggshell finish, satin paints provide a soft luster sheen similar to that of an eggshell. A satin finish provides a harder surface finish, which is more durable and more stain resistant than a flat finish. This durability makes satin finish paint a good choice for walls in children's rooms, hallways, stairways and family rooms.

Semi-gloss Paints:
These paints are very durable; they are easier to clean and are more stain resistant than satin finish paints. Semi-gloss paints are most often used on heavy wear surfaces or in areas that are frequently cleaned, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Semi-gloss paint is also used on wood trim and cabinets.



Gloss Paint:
This is a harder, more durable, more stain resistant paint finish. It is easier to clean than all the other paint finishes. Gloss finishes generally make surface imperfections more noticeable. Gloss finishes are the best choice for heavy wear areas like kitchens, bathrooms, furniture and cabinets, floors, stairs, handrails, high traffic doors and trims.

Which type of paint should you use?
Two properties you need to consider: how much wear and tear will the surface get and is a sheen or gloss to the finish going to conflict with your decorating scheme. If you are painting a storage room or other area which will be subjected to hard use and frequent washings, go with the highest gloss, as these paints are designed for just that. If the "feel" of the room is important, such as a living room or bedroom, choose the lower gloss finishes for a calm, soothing feeling.

Okay these might be a little “Sciency”, but they are easier on the environment!

Types of Non-Toxic Paints and Finishes:
The term "non-toxic" is used here in its broadest sense. With paints and finishes, it's more a matter of degree. Even Zero VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) formulations contain some small amounts of toxins. There are three general categories of non-toxic (or low-toxic) paints: Natural Paints, Zero VOC, and Low VOC.

Natural Paints and Finishes:
These are paints made from natural raw ingredients such as water, plant oils and resins, plant dyes and essential oils; natural minerals such as clay, chalk and talcum; milk casein, natural latex, bees' wax, earth and mineral dyes. Water-based natural paints give off almost no smell. The oil-based natural paints usually have a pleasant fragrance of citrus or essential oils. Allergies and sensitivities to these paint types are uncommon. These paints are the safest for your health and for the environment.

Zero VOC:
Any paint with VOCs in the range of 5 grams per liter or less can be called "Zero VOC", according to the EPA Reference Test Method 24. Some manufacturers may claim "Zero VOCs", but these paints may still use colorants, biocides and fungicides with some VOCs. Adding a color tint usually brings the VOC level up to 10 grams per liter, which is still quite low.

Low VOC:
Low VOC paints, stains and varnishes use water as a carrier instead of petroleum-based solvents. As such, the levels of harmful emissions are lower than solvent-borne surface coatings. These certified coatings also contain no, or very low levels, of heavy metals and formaldehyde. The amount of VOCs varies among different "low-VOC" products, and is listed on the paint can or MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets). Paints and stains, to meet EPA standards, must not contain VOCs in excess of 200 grams per liter. Varnishes must not contain VOCs in excess of 300 grams per liter. As a general rule, low VOC paints marketed by reputable paint manufacturers usually meet the 50 grams per liter VOC threshold. Paints with the Green SealStandard (GS-11) mark are certified lower than 50 grams per liter (for flat sheen) or 150 grams per liter (for non-flat sheen). Low VOC paints will still emit an odor until dry. If you are particularly sensitive, make sure the paint you buy contains fewer than 25 grams per liter of VOCs.

Okay now…

Today prompted us to take a look at some of the prominent African American Citizens that have made contributions to the field of Architecture and Interior Design. One of the more prominent was Paul Williams.

Born in 1894, Paul practiced largely in Southern California and designed the homes of numerous stars including Frank Sinatra, Lucille Ball/Desi Arnaz,Lon Chaney, and Charles Correll. He also designed many public and private buildings.